Mademoiselle
A return to Warsaw, Poland but this time for a different experience.
We started off with a walking tour of the Old Town but this time focusing more on the history of Poland and taking the less touristy streets. Our guide was superb and tried to keep the history of Poland concise which is not easy as I have learnt from this trip that Poland has a long history, more than I thought.
We stayed at the 4-star Leonardo Hotel which is part of the NYX group of hotels. I would classify it as a business hotel as the interior design was basic but also a lot of people on business stay here but that’s not to say that tourists cannot stay too. It is about a 30-minute walk to the Old Town or 20 minutes by public transport.
The room was very nice. It’s what I would imagine a hotel to be – it had a modern bathroom with a big mirror and a rain shower which is always a bonus for me. The bed was comfy; however, the pillow(s) were not the best, there was a decorative pillow and then the other pillow that you are supposedly meant to sleep on was one big square pillow which although I was able to sleep with it, it was not the best shape. Nevertheless, they had an ironing board, a safe and tea and coffee within the room.
Breakfast in the Leonardo was good, with more savoury options than sweet which is not necessarily an issue, but for us who like a sweeter breakfast it was limited but still fine with bread, croissants, mini cakes, fruit etc.
We didn’t stay long in Warsaw as we wanted to discover a new town in Poland. Our next stop was Tourn which is a 4-hour drive from Warsaw.
Along the way we stopped off at Chopin’s Birth Place, in Żelazowa Wola. If you are a fan of Chopin or classical music in general then I would say it is something that you would enjoy and should visit. Although I am not a fan of classical music or Chopin, on your visit here you can definitely appreciate the history of Chopin and what he meant to the Polish people at the time and now.
We were treated to a private performance by an extremely talented pianist who was only 16 years old and who has won many international Piano competitions. She played three of Chopin’s pieces and played them brilliantly.
After the performance we had a tour of Chopin’s house and the surrounding grounds. It was interesting to hear about his life and what he went through and the impact he has today in the world of classical music. Chopin’s birthplace attracts thousands of tourists a year especially in the summer. There are many school trips but also, they hold many events and concerts within the beautiful grounds to keep Chopin’s music alive whilst also providing opportunity to up-coming musicians to show their talent and their love for Chopin and classical music which I think is a brilliant idea.
I must mention the guide that took us around. She was amazing! She was so passionate and enthusiastic about Chopin and his life that you could not help but feel immersed in what she was saying, it made you want to listen to her. She definitely is in the right job.
Our next stop was Zamek Golubski, a medieval castle where people take part in re-enacting battles and jousting competitions each year. The castle structure is huge and they have converted part of it into a hotel with 20 rooms together with a restaurant, so if you want to experience what staying in a medieval castle is like then here is your opportunity.
The castle can hold different events from parties, like Prom to a business conference as their rooms are big and can hold many people and as they have a restaurant, they can provide food and drink for these events. Holding an event in a medieval castle is unique and I can imagine it being very successful and enchanting being surrounded by the history of the castle. I can also imagine taking wedding photos in the castle with its courtyard and balcony and the entrance of the castle – it would work very well. However, I shall warn my fellow girlies, that wearing heels is not an option as the ground in the courtyard is cobbled and we don’t want broken ankles!
Our final destination and overnight stay before reaching the town of Tourn was the Hotel
Patac Romantyczny which is just over a 20-minute drive from Tourn. The building and the grounds were grand and are impressive with a stylish lobby.
However, the rooms were another story. It is not what I expected at all, especially when you look at the exterior of the hotel which is not reflected in the rooms. It felt like the rooms were not even part of the same hotel. There were many things wrong with the room which was not consistent with a 4-star hotel. Having said that, they did provide slippers and bath robes which when you look at the Leonardo Hotel there weren’t any, which I was surprised at.
However, this does not make up for the other issues of the room, to keep it brief; the interior design of the room was all wrong from the layout to the choice of carpet and paint to the furniture. The bathroom was small, old in design and not very inviting. The size of the room was big for no reason and they did not use the space effectively. We had a sort of living room area which was not needed, the beds were not even a standard single bed (smaller), and they were just pushed against the wall, when there was plenty of space for another layout. The furniture was a dark wood which made the room look dark and depressing. We had two huge wardrobes, for what purpose exactly I’m not sure. The wooden desk was badly chipped. The kettle was super old and there was only an option of Ceylon tea. I felt like I was in the maid’s quarters.
After dinner, which was good, I was not looking forward to sleeping in our room. Even getting to it involved long walks down multiple corridors and in some areas, there was not lights or they did not come on to light the way.
Nevertheless, having said all that the actual hotel and its facilities are diverse and impressive. For instance, it’s perfect for a wedding. They have a chapel in the grounds and a pond which would be great to take wedding photos; they have event spaces perfect for a dance floor and which can be easily opened up to make the room bigger to hold more people, whether that be for a wedding, conference, or company training etc.
They also had options for outdoor events with marquees in the beautiful grounds. They also have a rooftop bar, which I would have liked to experience but unfortunately it was raining. Another activity I would have liked to have done if it was not raining, was to hire one of their bikes and cycle around the grounds which I think would have given a different perspective.
In addition, they have a spa, where you can enjoy the sauna, or relax in their outdoor jacuzzi and swimming pool. This hotel does not just thrive in the summer but have continuing guests in the winter as they hold a Christmas and New Year’s Eve party. I can imagine when it snows, it looks magical, especially walking in their grounds with lit up trees.
Although there were a few issues with the hotel, it wasn’t all bad and there is a lot of potential.
The next day, which was lovely and sunny, we made our way to Tourn, which is a UNESCO world heritage site. We first had a boat ride on the river which was lovely. I always think taking a boat ride is a great way to see part of a city as it gives a different viewpoint. After that we made our way to the Gingerbread Museum, as Tourn is known for its gingerbread. The museum put on a small interactive production, with staff dressed in traditional clothing showing how they used to make gingerbread with the different ingredients and methods, while also getting the audience involved. After that, we had the chance to make our own gingerbread (pre-made dough) that you can take home, but it is advised not to eat it for hygiene reasons, it is more of a handmade souvenir. I enjoyed doing it and the workshop was fun.
After our gingerbread making, we took a walking tour of Tourn town, which was quite quick, so I would like to go back and discover more of what it has to offer.
When I do go back, I know which hotel I will be staying at – Hotel 1231. This is a very modern 4-star boutique hotel, located in the heart of the town. It has two unique apartment rooms which are different from each other and very comfortable and spacious. They have a standard room and superior room.
They also have a mini gym, a sauna, and a cinema room (for 23 people) which any guest can use and watch whatever film they like and they can play video games. I have never been to a hotel that has a cinema room, so I thought that was cool. In addition, they have a cigar room which I thought was an interesting addition to a hotel but I guess that’s one thing that makes it unique. They also have a golf course simulator. There is also a bar leading to an outdoor courtyard where they can hold events such as live music and outdoor cinema. The restaurant area, gives a wine cellar kind of vibe, with open walls.
The interior colour scheme running through the hotel is black and grey which gives the hotel and rooms that modern, sleek look but they add a touch of colour with their decorative cushions and blankets. Although it can look quite dark being black it is still inviting. I am very much looking forward to coming back to Tourn to explore the town further and staying in this unique hotel.
I think Poland is a great country to visit because it is not just the capital Warsaw that has something to offer but its surrounding cities and towns. They are all unique in themselves and they are more than happy for tourists to visit and discover Poland. I have found that as part of Europe, Poland is quite a cheap country. We had two branded ice creams for £3! In the UK, it would be £3 each if not more. So, you can be sure of an affordable holiday.
All in all, Poland does not disappoint. It has history, architecture and style, giving it a unique character that brings you back every time.
MADAME
Flying into Warsaw Chopin Airport, with a great from LOT Polish Airlines, you are struck by the vast green expanses of the countryside. Yet, you soon discover that the city is a harmonious mix of modern skyscrapers and the old city, totally rebuilt as it once stood before being destroyed during WW2.
With a wide variety of hotels, the city lies in the heart of the country and at the heart of Europe. It is a symbol and testament to its survival and development to become a hub for business, science and culture with a wealth of unique historical sites.
During another recent visit we discovered more of this amazing country.
Starting in the old city of Warsaw, this is an architectural and engineering feat in that it has been totally rebuilt in the 1950’s after WW2. It is now a well-deserved UNESCO World Heritage Site and has a unique charm with narrow streets, colourful town houses, a royal castle and the old market square with the nation’s emblem, the iconic mermaid at its centre.
A true hidden gem of the city is the Supreme Court of Justice building. A facade of copper-clad columns is impressive, but walk to the back of the building and see the 3 huge caryatids sculpted by Jerzy Juczkowicz symbolising the virtues of faith, hope and love, that walk on a shallow pool of water.
At the side of the court house in Krasinski Square is the huge and impressive Monument to the Warsaw Uprising.
Also on the square is the Field Army Church. With so many churches to visit in the city, this one is unique. Inside you will find several amazing features including the Katyn Chapel where approx. 15,000 names of Polish Army officers are carved on two walls of the Chapel. The altar with an image of the Madonna, is highlighted by a halo of buttons from military coats.
Another part of the city’s story is of its ghetto. Just off the tourist track you will find the Ghetto Wall 1940-1943. Created by the Germans and surrounded by a wall in 1940, the ghetto became home for 360,000 Warsaw Jews and 90,000 from other towns. Here they lived in squalled conditions resulting in 100,000 dying of hunger or disease. A further 300,000 were later deported and gassed. In 1943 an uprising broke out, but with the systematic burning down of the ghetto, the remaining residents perished. The Ghetto Wall monument is a memorial to all those who fought, suffered and died.
Our stay in Warsaw was at the Leonardo Hotel, a short walk from the old city. A fabulous newly refurnished business hotel, the rooms are simple, chic and elegant with all you need for a few nights stay. There is also a good breakfast on offer too.
Exploring more of the country we headed to Żelazowa Wola, the birthplace of the world famous composer, Fryderyk Chopin. Here, while seated in the warm morning sunshine, we listened to a recital by an extremely talented 16yr old musical sensation. I am not a fan of classical music or Chopin; however, to hear the enthusiasm and genuine excitement and love of the story, the man and the music from our guide was the highlight of the visit.
The small house is delightful and simple, and the stunning extensive gardens, are beautiful and include a pond, outdoor stages, meandering paths, statues and act as a broader openair stage with regular audio recordings broadcast throughout the grounds. It is an audio-guide aimed at attracting as many people as possible to enjoy the music of the great composer.
Two new buildings compliment the museum; a new welcome centre with reception area and gift shop and the other offering a cinema and café.
When the gardens were being landscaped in 2010, a national request was made for plant donations. The centre received over 15,000 plants from all over the country. There are regular recitals and concerts held at the centre and each year over 300,000 tourists come to the holy grail of this classical music master.
Our next stop was the 13th century Golub-Dobrzyń Castle, complete with cannons and turrets. With its delightful balcony courtyard, long halls with high ceilings, the options for holding events here are wonderful.
As a museum and cultural centre, it hosts Europe’s largest medieval Knights tournament with jousting, archery and historical re-enactments. The restaurant is in the old kitchen and just adds to the historic feel of a very impressive castle that overlooks the Drweca River.
It is worth mentioning that after such a long and often turbulent history, Poland has many palaces and castles that have been painstakingly restored to their former glory and are today cultural centres, hotels, venues, and museums, making them a core part of Poland’s tourism and events offering today.
Our overnight stay was at the picturesque ‘Palacu Romantycznym’ in Turzno. Built in the 2nd half of the 19th century by the Italian architect Henryk Marconi, it has been home to many wealthy Polish families. During WW2 it was used as a hospital and has also been a private school. It turned into the hotel we see today in 2007.
With a lake and stream complete with a lovers bridge, the grounds offer a pretty chapel for weddings, including a balcony. Within the hotel are a variety of adaptable conference rooms making it is a fantastic event hotel in stunning grounds. There is also a spa and pool, tennis courts and bicycles for hire.
The restaurant offers many gastronomic delights with a selection of dishes to please any taste.
As a 4* Hotel, the reception, bar, etc were impressive, but the rooms we stayed in, although recently redecorated, had just ‘ticked’ the box to gain that hotel category; the little details and extras in the rooms were missing to make it a really great 4* stay. Just small changes will create that magical experience across the entire hotel, which it is duly worth.
Up early the following morning and after a fantastic breakfast spread, we head to the beautiful city of Torun; one of the most enchanting destinations in the north of Poland.
Recognised as one of Poland’s Seven Wonders, this medieval town with its red brick architecture is famous for its gingerbread and being the birthplace of the famous astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus.
The city holds a huge cultural heritage, for once being the centre of economic and political power in the region.
Located on the broad River Vistula, we boarded a small boat for a relaxing sunny cruise up the river.
The panoramic view of the city from the water was stunning and with our local guide we learnt how this walled and gated city has grown to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Within the walls are many churches as well as a huge Teutonic castle. With pretty cobbled streets lined with townhouses and flowering window boxes, we walked to the Living Museum of Gingerbread.
Here, in a replica of a 16th century gingerbread bakery, we learnt from staff dressed in period costume, how the gingerbread is made and then took part in a workshop, enabling us to bring home a sample!
Our lunch was hosted by the Hotel 1231, located next to one of the old gatehouses to the city.
The stunning 4* boutique hotel is in two parts connected by an underground passage; the first being a renovated 13th century Castle Mill, and the other dating from the 14th century, which served as a hospital, to treat injured knights returning from crusades. Both buildings are part of the remaining relics of the Toruń Castle.
The imaginative harmony of mixing modern simple décor with historic features makes for a unique setting. With meeting facilities, a underground spa, roof terrace, garden, cinema (for 23 people), a cosy smoking room and a chic and sophisticated attic apartment suite with balcony, this is a perfect base to explore Torun and the surrounding region.
Unfortunately with flights waiting to take us back home, we left Torun with fabulous memories and I desire to come back for more.
Poland surprises at every turn with its unexpected gems of historical cultural sites and heritage while adding a modern twist that appeals to all who set foot on her land.
POLAND
MORE THAN YOU EXPECTED
June 2024
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